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Survey of chemical substances in dandruff shampoo 3 Ingredients and their function3.1 Substance groups The primary objective of this project was to identify the constituent ingredients of dandruff shampoo. The ingredients declared in the ingredient lists on the products served as starting point. The ingredients declared were examined and results are illustrated below in tables on cosmetic and medical dandruff shampoos respectively. The tables are not listings of the ingredients contained in each product; rather they represent a collocation of all the substances present in the twelve shampoos examined. Moreover, the tables illustrate which substances perform which function (cf. the functions mentioned in section 1.2). This includes the typical quantities in which the substances are added to the products, stated as intervals. The INCI list has been used primarily to determine the function of substances, and a substance may therefore appear in several tables, since several of the substances in the INCI list are labelled with more than one function. 3.1 Substance groupsIn the tables below the substances found have been divided into groups according to the function they are assumed to have in the product. Furthermore, a subsection follows each table stating the concentration interval within which the substance group in question is expected to occur in the products. All weights and measures are stated as the weight percentage of the total product, exclusive of packaging. Information concerning the quantities added has been found primarily in patents for shampoo and dandruff shampoo. A given concentration interval therefore does not reflect data on a specific product in a single patent, but is rather a general overview of information about product composition from the patents seen as a whole. In the section called References is a total list of references. 3.1.1 SolventsSolvents in cosmetic and medical dandruff shampoo
The information available indicates that water is the only solvent used in dandruff shampoo. 3.1.1.1 Concentration intervalTypically, between 60 and 85 % w/w water is added. 3.1.2 Surfactants / soap componentsSurfactants in cosmetic dandruff shampoo
Surfactants in medical dandruff shampoo
3.1.2.1 Concentration intervalAnionic surfactants typically comprise between 12 and 30 % w/w, whereas amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants comprise typically between 1 and 8 % w/w. 3.1.3 SoftenersSofteners in cosmetic dandruff shampoo
Softeners in medical dandruff shampoo
3.1.3.1 Concentration intervalThe contents of softeners in shampoo typically comprise between 0.2 and 3% w/w. 3.1.4 EmulsifiersEmulsifiers in cosmetic dandruff shampoo
Emulsifiers in medical dandruff shampoo
3.1.4.1 Concentration intervalContents of emulsifiers in shampoo typically comprise between 0.4 and 4% w/w. 3.1.5 HumectantsHumectants in cosmetic dandruff shampoo
3.1.5.1 Concentration intervalNo data. 3.1.6 Thickening agents and viscosity controlling substances (gelation agents)Thickening agents (T) and viscosity controlling substances (V) in cosmetic dandruff shampoo
Thickening agents (T) and viscosity controlling (V) substances in medical dandruff shampoo
3.1.6.1 Concentration intervalContents of thickening agents and viscosity controlling substances in shampoos typically comprise between 0.25 and 1.3 % w/w. 3.1.7 Emulsion stabilisersEmulsion stabilisers in cosmetic dandruff shampoo
Emulsion stabilisers in medical dandruff shampoos
3.1.7.1 Concentration intervalEmulsion stabilisers are typically present in quantities between 0.5 and 1.0 % w/w. 3.1.8 Preservatives and anti-microbial agentsPreservatives and anti-microbial agents (AM) in cosmetic dandruff shampoo
Preservatives in medical dandruff shampoo
Methylisothiazolinone and methylchloroisothiazolinone are seldom used as individual ingredients but rather as a mixture (also termed Kathon) in a 1:3 ratio. 3.1.8.1 Concentration intervalPreservatives and anti-microbial agents typically comprise between 0.05 and 0.5% w/w. In the Statutory Order on Cosmetic Products preservatives feature on a so-called positive list. This means that rules have been laid down stipulating which preservatives may be used and the maximum concentration at which a preservative may be added to products. Provided the maximum authorized concentration level for individual components is not exceeded, no maximum limit for addition of mixtures of preservatives is given. 3.1.9 BuffersBuffers in cosmetic dandruff shampoo
Buffers in medical dandruff shampoo
3.1.9.1 Concentration intervalBuffers are normally added in quantities adequate to change the pH value of the mixture to between 4 and 6.5 - values similar to that of the skin. For example, sodium hydroxide is added in a 25 % solution in quantities corresponding to between 0.5 and 1 % w/w, and citric acid may be added in quantities between 0.1 and 0.2 % w/w. 3.1.10 Soothing, skin-conditioning and astringent substancesSoothing (S), skin-conditioning (SC) and astringent (A) substances in cosmetic dandruff shampoo
3.1.10.1 Concentration intervalSoothing, skin-conditioning and astringent substances are added in quantities between 0.1 and 0.7 % w/w. 3.1.11 Film formers and hair-conditionersFilm formers (F) and hair-conditioners (H) in cosmetic dandruff shampoo
Film formers (F) and hair-conditioners (H) in medical dandruff shampoo
3.1.11.1 Concentration intervalFilm formers and hair-conditioners are added in quantities between 0.1 and 1 % w/w. 3.1.12 ColourantsColourants in cosmetic dandruff shampoo
Colourants in medical dandruff shampoo
3.1.12.1 Concentration intervalColourants are added in quantities between 0.001 and 0.007 % w/w. 3.1.13 Anti-dandruff agentsAnti-dandruff agents in cosmetic dandruff shampoo
Anti-dandruff agents in medical dandruff shampoo
3.1.13.1 Concentration intervalAnti-dandruff agents in cosmetic shampoo typically comprise between 0.3 and 2 % w/w. 3.1.14 Fragrances (perfumes)Fragrances in cosmetic dandruff shampoo
Fragrances in medical dandruff shampoo
3.1.14.1 Concentration intervalDandruff shampoos typically contain up to 1 % w/w fragrance mixture. Three of the products (numbers 359, 364 [5] and 365) did not contain any perfumes. 3.1.15 Other substancesOther substances in cosmetic dandruff shampoo
Other substances in medical dandruff shampoo
3.1.15.1 Concentration intervalTetrasodium EDTA is added in quantities of around 0.5 % w/w and acrylate copolymers are added in quantities of about 1 - 1.5 % w/w. 3.2 Comparison with ordinary shampooIn order to identify substances typical in dandruff shampoo but which do not have direct anti-dandruff effects, the 12 dandruff shampoos were compared to 14 ordinary shampoos surveyed by the Danish EPA. Not surprisingly, an examination of substances found in ordinary shampoo but not in dandruff shampoo, suggested that there are no substance components specific to ordinary shampoos. According to the examination, the fourteen ordinary shampoos contained over 50 different substances not present in the dandruff shampoos. These substances are relatively evenly distributed between surfactants, emollients (softeners), plant extracts, preservatives, emulsifiers, and buffers. In contrast, the examination of whether dandruff shampoos contain substance components not present in ordinary shampoos, revealed a difference between the two types of shampoo. The latter examination showed that dandruff shampoo, in addition to the declared active anti-dandruff agents, contains more lipophile and lipophile-like substances than ordinary shampoo. These are often derivates of fatty acids, acetylated mono glycerides, and di- and triglycerides, such as olive oil, castor oil, coconut oil, and tallow. Not all more or less exotic plant extracts and oils have been included, since it is difficult to ascertain the contents and function of these substances. The table shows results of the comparison. Substances present in the 12 dandruff shampoos examined, which were not found in the 14 ordinary shampoos previously surveyed by the Danish EPA. The remaining 17 of the 27 substances in total are lipophile substances. Plant extracts and oils, as well as active dandruff ingredients have not been included in the table.
Footnotes [4] commercial trade name. Medical dandruff shampoo is not obliged to have an inci-declaration as cosmetic dandruff products are. [5] no. 364 has gone out of stock [6] no. 364 has gone out of stock
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