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Survey of chemical substances in kohl and henna products
2 Survey
2.1 Introduction
The survey was performed traditionally by searching in official statistics and approaching importers and retailers, and seeking information from the trade association SPT (Association of Danish Cosmetics,
Toiletries, Soap and Detergent Industries), speciality shops and beauty shops.
Statistics Denmark does not have a separate commodity identification number for neither kohl nor henna products. The total trade statistics on consumption (import minus export) for cosmetic products is
approximately 20,000 tonnes. In the inventory of Statistics Denmark on import and export, a commodity number CN 3304.20.00 is found that covers import and export of ”cosmetics to eyes”. Besides
eyeliner the presented number include mascara, eye shadows, etc. without any possibility of segregation. According to this statistics the consumption of cosmetics to the eyes is 377 tonnes (or 91 million
DKK).
The trade statistics from the trade association SPT is given in Danish currency (cf. figure below). Based on an average price the stated amount indicate a consumption of approximately 20 tonnes. The
statistics are, however, uncertain due to the mixing with other commodity groups.
Figure 1. SPT Trade statistics on the Danish market of cosmetics (SPT 2004). Columns represent in order of appearance: perfumes and fragrances, Decorative cosmetics, skin care products, hair care products, and toiletries
Due to a wide use of personal import and no specific registration in Statistics Denmark the assessment of the consumption is based on individual importers and information on their import that most identified
importers have made available.
The survey was made difficult as no strict structure with a few importers and a network of retail dealers existed. Besides retailers marketing the established brands, many retailers perform their own import
and consumers buy via the Internet or purchase cosmetics on travels, vacations, etc.
2.2 Survey
Several retail dealers has been visited and questioned to track the importers. The identified importers has been approached by a questionnaire.
2.2.1 Kohl products
Regarding to the kohl products, import and sale data from the sources that wished to participate were variable. The data varied for individual importers from a few hundred to thousands of kohl sticks or
pencils per year. The retailers stated the sale of kohl products in numbers and not in weight (kg). Assuming an average weight of approximately 3 grams each, an annual consumption of approximately 350 kg
could be accounted for.
An alternative estimate is performed using information from TGD (2003), The Scientific Committee on Cosmetics and Non-Food Products (SCCNFP 2000) and a Dutch report on cosmetics. In the TGD
(2003) and SCCNFP (2000) is stated that eye liners are used 1 time daily at an amount of 5 mg each time. In the Dutch report (Bremmer et al. 2002) is assumed that kohl (eyeliner) is used 1 time daily by
10% of the population in amounts of 5 mg each time. The exposed skin area is calculated as a line over and under both eyes at a length of 4 cm and 2 mm wide, i.e. in total 4×4×0.2 = 3.2 cm². Using a
population in Denmark of 5.4 million inhabitants the estimated consumption is 5 mg 5.4×106 persons 0.1 (10%)×365 days = 986 kg/year.
2.2.2 Henna products
The sale of henna was considered to be stopped or at best diminishing. SPT states that approximately 8 million hair dyeings were performed in Denmark annually but the number of henna dyeing was
unknown. According to SPT Danish hair dressers do not use powdered henna indicating that the consumption may well be solely by the consumers. At any rate the questionnaires could account for an annual
consumption of approximately 10 tonnes of henna.
An estimate based on e.g. 100,000 hair dyeings using 100 g henna powder results in approximately 10 tonnes of henna powder/year.
It is assessed from the interviews that a large part is imported directly by the individual retailers from the manufacturing countries or via the Internet. The latter may be performed by both retailers and
consumers.
The retailers were especially ethnic shops (Indian, Pakistani, etc), health diet shops, single retail shops and chains of retail stores (Matas, Føtex, etc.). Besides, single retailers may take kohl and henna
products in as casuals or cash commodities.
2.2.3 Total consumption
Based on interviews with importers and retailers and their information from questionnaires is concluded that the surveyed market accounted for 0.4 tonnes of kohl and approx. 10 tonnes of henna products.
Assuming that minor retailers and consumers own import is approximately 1 to 2 times the identified import, the total consumption is thus estimated to be approximately 1 tonne of kohl products, which is
equivalent to the estimate performed using the Dutch method, and approximately 10 to 15 tonnes of henna products per year.
2.3 Purchased products
2.3.1 Kohl products
Kohl products used traditionally by some groups of immigrants were purchased in ethnic shops. Besides products with a similar designation were found in larger Danish retail stores such as Matas, Føtex,
Magasin, etc. where they usually were known as ”eyeliner”.
2.3.1.1 Collected types
The collected samples are distributed as:
- Powders. Kohl as powder was observed in ethnic shops. They are applied using a brush or moistened with oil or similar.
- Solid forms of small lump on a stick to be moistened before application.
- Stick
- Pencil/crayon with a soft interior
The main part of the products had black, grey or brown colours but violet and blue colours were also available.
According to the Danish Statutory Order on Cosmetics (Bkg. 489, 2003) all cosmetic products must be labelled with an ingredients list. A list of ingredients mentioned in a descending order according to
weight at the time they are added to the cosmetic preparation. The list starts with the word ”Ingredients”.
Of the 37 collected samples, 18 are selected for screening analysis.
The sampling stopped as repetitions became frequent.
2.3.1.2 Selection of products for analysis
The following kohl products is selected based on their ingredients, type (stick / pencil / brush / powder), origin, and market occurrence:
Lab. no. 31431-25, -30, -31, -33, -35, -42, -43, -49,- 51, -52, -56, -59, -60, -61, 62, 64, 65, and -66.
2.3.2 Henna products
The henna products were mostly intended for hair dyeing. Henna products were observed in ethnic shops and larger retail stores (Matas, Føtex, etc.).
2.3.2.1 Collected types
Of the collected samples the products are distributed among powders, paste and shampoo.
The henna products were found in ethnic stores and in orther retail stores.
The products had a large selection of shades but mostly of a reddish brown nuances.
Of the 25 collected samples, 17 are selected for screening analysis.
The sampling stopped as repetitions became frequent.
2.3.2.2 Selection of products for analysis
The following henna products are selected based on their ingredients, type (powder / paste), the range in assortment and origin:
Lab. no.: 31341-1, -2, -3, -4, -5, -8, -9, -10, -11, -12, -14, -20, -21, -23, -57, -58 and -63.
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Version 1.0 September 2005, © Danish Environmental Protection Agency
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