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Survey and safety assessment of Chemical substances in artificial nails and nail hardeners 3 Survey
3.1 Literature searchBy literature searches in public databases on the internet ((ToxLine, PubMed, Google) articles describing health problems caused by the use of nail hardeners and artificial nails have been searched. The following search terms were used: ’Acrylates and artificial nails’, ’artificial nails and sensitisation’, ’nail extenders’ nail hardener’ ’powder and liquid’. This search identified literature describing effects such as allergy, irritation and bacteria infections by using artificial nails and nail hardeners. Many of the articles showed that use of artificial nails often causes allergy and irritation, whereas formaldehyde is mentioned in relation to nail hardeners. Based on the result of the literature search, the products that are potentially most harmful to the consumer were pointed out. 3.2 Delimination of the surveyThere are a great number of products for manufacture of artificial nails in Denmark, whereas the selection of nail hardener products is more limited. On a visit to a supplier, the present methods for fixing artificial nails were presented to us. The producer emphasized that the product for building up artificial nails on the natural nail hardeners is only for professional use and is only for sale to and thus to be used by educated, professional nail technicians. Due to this, the consumer will not themselves be able to use these products but can only get in touch with them when visiting nail cliniques and hair dressers. However, DHI assesses that the private consumer on the internet has access to professional products for use at home. The education of nail technicians comprises not only techniques and skills but also hygiene and health aspects. Today there is no authorised education of nail technicians in Denmark. There are four difference methods for building up artificial nails:
When building up artificial nails, a number of different products are required to obtain the desired result. Besides acrylic powders, gels and liquids for example primers and degreasing products for cleaning and ready making of the natural nail are required before affixing or building up the artificial nail. Also oil or fat for protection of skin and nail cuticle, and top coat used for the last shiny surface, often added UV-filter is used. On the basis of the results of the literature search we chose to concentrate the survey of the artificial nails on the components mainly containing acrylates. From collected safety data sheets for some of the acrylic powder-, acrylic liquid- and acrylic gel products it could be established that all these products contain from 60% to more than 90% acrylates. Acrylic powder and gels are sold in many different colours with the possibility of inserting tinsel and jewels into the nails. In the survey we have chosen only to use the colourless variants of the selected powders and gels. There is also a fifth method besides the above mentioned: The artificial nails can be pre-manufactures nail tips which are glued on the nails. These nails and the glue are sold in many retail shops. The pre-manufactured nails are not included in the survey, as they are not assumed to pose risks to the users. Glues for fixing nail tips are however included. Searches on the internet showed many suppliers of the products. We have endeavoured to select products from big as well as smaller suppliers and we have recognized that it is not possible to cover the complete market. 3.3 SurveyIn May and June 2007 we carried out a survey of nail hardeners and products for manufacture of artificial nails sold on the Danish retail market and via the internet from nail cliniques and importers of nail products. 3.3.1 Products on the retail marketOn the retail market nail hardeners and glues for fixing artificial nails were identified in the following types of stores:
No products for building up artificial nails were found in the retail trade during our survey. Subsequently, however, complete start sets have been introduced to the market, e.g. on the internet directly to the consumers. Typically these start sets contain whatever is needed to build up artificial nails and an instruction. During the survey, most nail hardeners were found in the retail market, and only one single product was purchased directly from an importer. Just as nail lacquer, all nail hardeners are sold in small bottles with a brush in the lid. The package and the label of the hardener mainly cater for women. That the product is a nail hardener and not a nail lacquer is indicated on the text of the packing. In addition, several of the products had a colour, which is normally not used for nail lacquers, and most products had a thin, spirit like consistency which is not found in nail lacquers. We have purchased seven nail hardeners for the project, one of these from an agent for professional users. Table 3.1 Nail hardeners, purchased in type of store, volume and price
The usage scenario for nail hardeners can be described as being identical with the scenario for nail lacquer. The products contain volatile inhalable solvents. The products must be painted on the nail and nail band and skin may come into contact with the products. According to the directions for use of some of the nail hardeners, it is only permitted to use them for a limited period of time, for instance once or twice a week, or in other cases as a two-, three- or four weeks cure with application for two or three days and lotion day 4 etc. The product is intended to remain on the nail until next day, when it is cleaned and renewed. According to the directions for use, the treatment with several products should be stopped or reduced to for instance 1-2 times a week or less when the nail has hardened. Five glues for fixing the nail tips have been purchased. Table 3.2 Glues for nails, purchased in type of shop, volume and price
Glues for artificial nails are all sold in small packing’s of 2 g until 15 ml, and three of the five purchased glues could be purchased in the retail stores. The glues for professional use are also called “resin”. The products contain cyanoacrylates that stick in few seconds. The usage scenario for the glues can be described as follows: The glues are applied on the nail surface, involving inhalation of fumes and risk of contact with nail bands and skin. The glues are applied for fixing pre-manufactured nail tips or repair of splitted nails. Warnings are given in all five products that the glues stick within seconds. 3.3.2 Products for professional useBy nail products for professional use is meant products only used for manufacture of artificial nails in nail cliniques or hair dressers. Contact to suppliers of products considered to have an important market share of artificial nails for professional use in the nail cliniques is endeavoured. The selection of the purchased products is based on the components containing most acrylates. Based on product data sheets from the nail producers and literature, the following products have been selected and purchased from the suppliers: Acrylic powder Acrylic liquid Acrylic gel Glue (resin) 7 acrylic powders and 7 acrylic liquids were purchased for the survey and all the products were purchased from the internet shops. Table 3.3 Acrylic powder for nails, volume and price
The greater part of the acrylic liquids were packed in plastic cans. Only one of the seven products was packed in a glass bottle, and this product was the only that did not emit a strong smell. It will be necessary to store the plastic cans with the acrylic liquids in a well ventilated room. Table 3.4 Acrylic liquids for nails, volume and price
Also the gel products are found in different colours. Seven different copies of the variant were purchased for the survey. Table 3.5 Acrylic gel for nails, volume and price
Usage scenarios and ways of application for Powder and Liquid nails: Acrylic powder and acrylic liquid are mixed and placed on the centre of the natural nail leaving few millimetres to cuticle and skin. The nail tips must often be extended during the operation and special forms or templates are used. The nails are built up in several turns and the process may last many hours. Cuticle and skin may come into contact with the products. Volatile acrylic fumes may be inhaled. During the process, the nails are cut and filed into the intended shape, and this may cause inhalation and contact with fine acrylic dust. Usage scenarios and ways of application for Gel nails: Acrylate-containing gel is placed on the centre of the natural nail leaving few millimetres to cuticle and skin. The nail tips must often be extended during the operation and for this purpose are used special forms or templates. The nails are hardened using UV-light. The nails are built up in several turns (up to 10 times) and this process may last many hours. Cuticle and skin may come into contact with the products. Volatile acrylic fumes may be inhaled. During the process, the nails are cut and filed into the intended shape and this may cause inhalation and contact with fine acrylic dust. Usage scenarios and ways of application for wrapping nails: Pre-manufactured nail tips are affixed to the natural nails, and a piece of silk or glass fibre is placed on the nails. The glass fibre or the silk must be fitted to the surface of the nails. After this, a layer of glue is placed on the nails to fasten the glass fibre/silk nails pieces. The nails are built up with the glue so that the glass fibre/silk nail pieces are totally embedded in the glue. Cuticle and skin may come into contact with the products. Inhalation of acrylic fumes may occur while the glue dries. Surfaces and sides are grinded in, and inhalation and of and contact with dust may occur. Usage scenarios for Dip on nails: These nails are produced by cutting the nail tips to the desired shape and by gluing them on. After that, a layer of glue is placed on the nail whereupon it is dipped in acrylic powder. The remaining acrylic powder is brushed away, and the process is repeated. The process is terminated by a layer of glue. Cuticle and skin may come into contact with the products. Inhalation of acrylic fumes may occur while the glue dries, and inhalation of and contact with dust may occur. 3.4 Ingredients of the products3.4.1 Ingredients in nail hardenersNail hardeners can consist of several principles. In the first place, formaldehyde can act as intensifier as the substance can polymerise keratin in the nail plate. Other intensifying components, such as for instance different types of polymers may also be contained. Table 3.6 Identified hardening components in nail hardeners indicated on the labels
Besides, the following substances have been identified in the survey of nail hardeners, cf. the INCI-declarations: Butyl Acetate, Ethyl acetate, Heptane, Isopropyl Alcohol, Acetyl Tributyl citrate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Dromethizole, Camphor. Formaldehyde which can act as intensifier and/or preservative can be added directly and indirectly. Indirectly it is added in the form of a substance that can liberate formaldehyde after addition. Formaldehyde liberating substances may be benzyl hemiformal, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, diazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, methenamine, paraformaldehyde, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate and quaternium-15. 3.4.2 Ingredients in nail hardenersThe declaration list on the products or material safety data sheets from the suppliers have been reviewed to identify which acrylates are contained in acrylic powders, –liquids, - gels and glues. The substances have been identified and listed in table 3.7 below. Table 3.7 Identified acrylates in the products
Besides the acrylates mentioned in table 3.7, it appears from safety data sheets or declaration lists available to us that the following substances are contained in acrylic powders: Benzoylperoxide (polymerisation initiator). The powders may also contain silica (filler) and titanium dioxide (pigment). In acrylic liquids: Benzophenone (UV-filter), dimenthyltolylamine, dimethylparatoluidine (catalysator), MeHQ (stabilisator). In acrylic gels: Hydroxycyclohexylphenylketone, benzophenone (UV-filter), benzoyl isopropanol (polymerisation initiator), calcium pantothenate (vitamin), silica (filler). Pigments in the form of blue or violet colours may be added. Glues: Boron trifluoride (strength), BHA (antioxidant), citric acid (pH-regulator), 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (preservative), hydroquinone (stabilisator), silica (filler), alcohol (solvent), sulfur dioxide. The substances are added in amounts below 1% and act as catalysators and stabilisators in the polymerisation process. The remainder in the artificial nail is therefore expected to be extremely limited. 3.5 Selection for analysisBased on the survey, products both within nail hardeners and artificial nail products (liquid and powder and gel nails) were selected for analysis, and it was determined to include both product systems (liquid powder and gel nails). In cooperation with the Danish Environmental Protection Agency, it was determined which substances to analyse for in the products concerned (See Chapter 4).
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