Survey of chemical substances in textile colorants

1 Mapping

1.1 Definition

In this context textile dyes for hobby use are defined as products used for dyeing and decoration of textiles and textile surfaces not meant for industrial use.

1.2 Purpose

The purpose of this mapping is to identify the textile products sold in Denmark, and the amount to which these products are sold to institutions and private purposes.

1.3 Procedure

The following activities are included in order to map the suppliers of textile dyes in the Danish market:

  • Visits to retail
  • Contact to trade unions
  • Internet search
  • Contact to municipalities and institutions

The retail was contacted in order to contact the textile dyes used on the Danish market for hobby use– including Dansk Supermarked (Føtex and A-Z), COOP (Kvikly Xtra), Søstrene Grene, Panduro Hobby, and Stof & Stil.

Members of the Danish Joint Council for Creative and Hobby Materials (FFFH), a union of manufacturers, importers, and distributors of hobby materials in Denmark, have been contacted in writing followed by telephone follow-up if the written inquiry did not result in useable information. Today Joint Council consists of 25 companies equally distributed between manufacturer, importers, and distributors. The members employed with textile dyes are stated as: A.V. Form A/S, Brio A/S BB Institutionssalg, Creative Company, Vestergaard A/S, Nordform, Panduro Hobby A/S, Pébéo Color Scandinavia ApS, and Schjerning's Farver A/S.

The Internet was used to search for further suppliers of textile dyes, however, it did not lead to more suppliers. This was further supplemented with a small survey of textile dye purchase used in textile and design schools, the Danish Design School, and TEKO and local bodies. Thus five larger municipalities were contacted. Please note that this is only a minor test and not a sufficient analysis of the municipalities purchase patterns. Three municipalities could inform that they used a common purchase system for all local schools, bodies etc., which indicates that the municipality has contracted with one or more suppliers to provide all hobby material. Two municipalities informed that they had not contracted to buy hobby material. The National Procurement Ltd. Denmark informed that they had no contract for purchase of hobby material. Contacting the municipalities and purchase bodies provided no further suppliers of textile dyes.

All mapped products are sold both privately and institutionally. Apart from the fact that dyes for hand and machine dying are primarily used in households there are no significant differences on the type of products used in households and institutions.

The mapping provided a total of 42 products mostly sold in different colours. The main part is produced in Denmark, France, Germany, United Kingdom, and the Far East. Based on information regarding production amounts and assessments from FFFH it is estimated that a total of 30,000 kg textile dye products were sold in Denmark for hobby use in 2002. Approximately 80% of the products are sold through FFFH's members.

It proved impossible to gather information on constituents for eleven products within the projects time limit, which means that we were unable to collect the necessary information from the companies within the given time and resource limits. Generally this applies to products from non-member suppliers.

1.4 Products

The test resulted in a division of textile dyes in two main groups:

  • Decoration dyes
  • Products for dyeing

The two main groups are further divided into five different sub-groups according to use and effect.

The stated amount distributions mentioned in sections 1.4.1 and 1.4.2 are based on an estimate from the prevailing information on produced amounts to the Danish market and assessments from FFFH.

1.4.1 Decoration dyes

This group includes products meant for decoration of materials. The products are used on limited areas and thus in limited amounts. It is thus assessed that the consumption within this group constitutes less than 20% of the total consumption of textile dyes.

1.4.1.1 Felt-tip pens

The products include pens with felt-tip (also known as textile markers). Felt-tip pens are especially suited for decoration on T-shirts and cotton. Different tips are used to obtain different effects and various types of line thickness.

1.4.1.2 Pop-up colours

This group includes products that pop when heated. The colours are used as contour and minor motives.

1.4.1.3 Transfer colours

These colours are transferred from a subject of plastic to the textile under heat. The colour is painted onto the subject. When the colour dries up it forms a soft resistant film that is transferable to most textiles. When the motive is fixated it may be removed and replaced or stored for later use.

1.4.2 Products for dyeing of textiles

This group includes products meant for dyeing or painting of larger areas. 80% of the used textile dyes are assessed to be in this group.

1.4.2.1 Dye for hand and machine dyeing

The group includes products meant for dyeing/re-dyeing of piece goods and finish goods in washing machine or by hand dyeing. This group differs from the remaining groups because the products are mainly used in households. The number of products within this sub-group is limited.

1.4.2.2 Fabric dyes

This group includes liquid dye solutions for silk or fabric applied with pens, brush, or the likes. This sub-group is far the largest as regards the number of different products.

1.5 Labelling classifications

Products with the CE-label and with the Danish Joint Council for Creative and Hobby Materials' (http://www.fffh.dk/) own labels were found during the mapping. These products are sold to households as well as institutions.

1.5.1 CE Label

The CE label indicates whether the product complies with the European standard. The label is added by the manufacturer or the importer and implies that the product complies with the prevailing safety regulations attached to the product type in question in EU.

Products that may be used as toys or that are recommended for specific types of toys must comply with the toy safety regulations. These regulations are found in the "Regulation no 329 of 23rd May 1995 (http://www.fs.dk/uk/acts/uktoy.htm) on Safety Requirements for Toys and Products, which due to their Appearance could be mistaken for Food", and in the standards referred to in the regulation appendix 3. The regulations on chemicals properties are especially relevant for textile dyes. The regulations indicate that the product in use may not compose a health risk due to ingestion, inhalation, or contact to skin, mucous membranes, or eyes. The product may not contain dangerous compounds. Furthermore, there is a requirement to maximum bioavailability per day of different heavy metals according to CEN-standard no EN71-3 in the Danish directive concerning the security of toys appendix 3.

Two products are CE labelled among the registered textile dyes and one product quotes that the product complies with the regulations for toys according to the standard EN71-3.

1.5.2 The Danish Joint Council for Creative and Hobby Materials

The Danish Joint Council for Creative and Hobby Materials (http://www.fffh.dk/) has prepared a number of requirements for creative and hobby materials to ensure that the materials contain no unwanted substances of environmental effect and thereby unnecessarily influencing children's health and well-being. Simultaneously, the requirements must ensure a solid foundation for assessment of the actual products. Among other things the requirement implies that every product must be accompanied by a Danish safety data sheet prepared in accordance to the Danish Working Environment Service's regulations (supplier manual).

The products are placed in one of four categories (A, B, C, or D). Category placement must be evident on shelves, in catalogues, and on other material.

1.5.2.1 Category A

Useable by children from 3 years of age. FFFH's regulations for group A products are more strict than Danish legislation prescribes. In order for products to enter into category A they must comply with the requirements listed below:


1.5.2.2 Category B

May be used by children from age 3 under expert adult guidance. Very low content of dangerous compounds. The product complies with the requirements in the Danish Toy Regulation.

1.5.2.3 Category C

May not be used by children under age 15. The product does not comply with the requirements in the Danish Toy Regulation.

1.5.2.4 Category D

May only be used by adults. The products are deemed hazardous.

All mapped products are water-based with the exception of one. 24 products are said to be A-classified. The labelling appears on the safety data sheet and/or product information. Four products are informed to be C-classified and one D-classified product. One silk colour is classified as C due to content of ethanol and diethylene glycol. A diluent for this dye is classified as D due to ethanol and butyldiglycol content.

Further two finish products are classified as C (glitter enamel) applied to the textile dyes as final stage (however, not as a necessary part of the process) and a glue agent sold as accessories to textile dye products.

Additionally two products are classified as injurious to health (Xn) and causing local irritation (Xi) respectively, thus they will be classified according to category D following the Danish Joint Council for Creative and Hobby Materials regulations on dye products for hand and machine dye.

The remaining products are insufficient as regards information (see 1.3).

1.6 Constituents

Generally speaking there are four basic components in a typical dye product:

1. Adhesives
2. Solvents
3. Pigments
4. Additives

1.6.1.1 Adhesives

The adhesives is purposed to adhere the dye to the base. It is small polymers (acryl and urethane adhesives for pigment dyeing) in an aqueous suspension (dispersion). Typical use is 3-5 monomers to one products e.g. butyl acrylate and vinyl acetate. The content of residual monomers varies from 0.001% to 0.1%. The products' content of adhesives varies a lot. In the study at hand the products have an adhesive content from approximately 15-98%.

1.6.1.2 Solvents

The solvent must keep the adhesive and the pigment liquid and provide the product with the correct texture. It must evaporate under drying making the colour stable. The solvent in products as textile dyes for hobby use will typically be water. The concentration of the solvent will vary for the single product types. The content varies from 20% to more than 80% in the study in question.

1.6.1.3 Pigments

White pigments such as e.g. titan dioxide and calcium carbonate are often used for filler where the toned pigment provides colour to the product if other than white. There are natural inorganic pigments such as ochre, graphite, and umber together with synthetic inorganic pigments as titan dioxide, zinc oxide, and lead chromate. The pigments are generally insoluble for which reason most colours are suspensions. Organic pigments/dyes are also found in its natural state as e.g. indigo and chlorophyll or as synthetic produced dyes as azo, anthrachinon, and acridin pigments/dyes.

The reactive dyes are especially suitable for cellulose fibres, e.g. cotton where the dye forms a covalent linkage (chemical linkage) to the cellulose fibres. The pigments are insoluble in water and fixed to the fibre surface by means of a binding agent that surrounds the pigment particles and adheres them the fibre surface. Acid dyes are especially suitable for wool dyeing where the acid dye's reactive group (sulphon acid group) is tied to the wool's amino groups.

The content of pigments and dyes in the dye products depends on the shade. Light shades contain minor amounts of pigments and dyes than dark shades. The content varies from <5% to more than 65% in the present study.

1.6.1.4 Additives

There are several types of additives. Solvents will often be added as film formation that ensures that the film merges. This may be compounds as butyl glycol and solvent naphtha (rapid evaporation) or propylene glycol and butyldiglycol that is more slowly evaporating. The content of film formation will typically be on a level from few percents to more than 10% depending on how shinny the surface is.

Preservative agents must reduce the risk of bacterial and fungus growth. It is often a mix of isothiazolons.

Surface active compounds as tensides, phosphates, and silicones may be added to stabilise the additive dispersion and humidify pigments and surfaces.

Some colour products are added softener agents as e.g. phthalates to make the dry product more flexible, whereas other products are softened at polymer construction.

The formation of certain polymer systems occurs under presence of a hardener – typically an amine-compound.

Finally the water-based products may contain surface-active agents often high-boiling polar compounds as e.g. glycols to reduce the surface tension.

1.6.2 Constituents in products

The main part of the mapped products is water-soluble and therefore required classified according to the Danish Environmental Protection Agency's labelling regulations. However, there is a frequent content of compounds listed in the Statutory Order no 439 of 3 June 2002, "The list of dangerous substances", however, in minor amounts requiring no labelling.

The main part of the textile dyes are based on reactive colour dyes and pigments – a few are on acid colour dyes.

The study has mapped the use of the following preservative agents: 5-chlor-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-on/2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-on (CMI/MI), phenoxyethanol, and parabens. Preservative agents are added in amounts ranging from 9 up to 2000 ppm.

Single products are solvent-based applying solvents as ethanol, diethylene glycol, and 2-amino-2-methylpropanol.

1.6.3 Selection of products and analyses

15 products were selected in co-operation with the Danish Environmental Protection Agency from the view of including products from the different product groups (section 1.4), Danish and foreign goods, products from different sales areas (mail order, specialist shops, and supermarkets), and products sold in large amounts.

The principle used for analyses selection is an initial qualitative screening of a larger number of products. A qualitative analysis is performed on selected products based on the analytical results. The initial qualitative analyses include X-ray analysis for metals and GC/MS screening analysis for volatile and semi-volatile compounds.

The quantitative analyses were selected from experience with dyes. The most critical chemical compounds were expected to be on the following compound list:

  • Organic solvents (solvents)
  • Heavy metals (pigments)
  • Azo compounds (dyes)
  • Amines (impurities from azo dye production)
  • Phthalates and adipates (softener and fixation agents)
  • Biocides (preservative agents)

The GC/MS screening for content of extractable organic compounds will include solvents, phthalates, and adipates and a part of preservative agents and amines. The ICP analysis for metals will include the selected metals. An analysis for aromatic amines will detect a potential presence of prohibited azo dyes.

The table states the preformed analyses for each product.

Table 1 Products selected for further analysis

Product no Product group Water based Metals Volatile and semi-volatile compounds Azo dyes Volatile and semi-volatile compounds Selected metals
Qualitative-
screening
Qualitative-
screening
Quantitative Quantitative-
screening
Quantitative
1 Felt-tip pen X x x x x x
2 Felt-tip pen X x x     x
3 Felt-tip pen X x x     x
4 Pop-up dye X x x x x  
5 Pop-up dye X x x   x  
6 Transfer dye X x x      
7 Transfer dye X x x   x  
8 Machine dye X x x      
9 Fabric dye X x x   x  
10 Fabric dye X x x x x  
11 Fabric dye X x x x
12 Fabric dye X x x x x x
13 Fabric dye X x x
14 Fabric dye X x x x
15 Fabric dye X x x

The products selected for analyses for specific metals and the quantitative screening are based on the results from the initial screenings.

The products for analyses for azo dyes are selected based on criteria to represent different manufacturers (five different) and product groups (three different). Moreover, the Danish Environmental Protection Agency has requested red or blue shades.

 



Version 1.0 July 2005, © Danish Environmental Protection Agency